The Mussel Inn, Takaka, Nelson

Hidden away amongst the cows and streams of Golden Bay is a real treat for lovers of country pubs and microbreweries. The Mussel Inn is a purpose-built tavern smack-bang in the middle of nowhere - or twenty minutes from Takaka and two hours from Nelson.

The Mussel is a rough-but-charming cafe/pub surrounded by scraggly trees in the middle of a whole heap of farmland. It has one main public room, complete with a huge fireplace, a wrap-around veranda and a large outside area with swings, barbie tables and fire-pits. It's a great setting. Inside they offer good honest pub tucker; four fine mains - streak, scallops, fish and pasta - that even Gordon Ramsey couldn't deny. It's delicious and simple food.

The real treat that awaits you at the Mussel is the selection of beers. It's expertly brewed on-site with 'forest filtered' water from the stream out the back. They have a surprisingly huge selection but the mainstays are The Golden Goose, a fragrant lager; the Captain Cooker, a very tasty Manuka flavoured ale; and the Dark Horse Black Beer, yet to pass the Fly's lips but it's reported to be 'dark and roasty'. They all are typically excellent. The Captain Cooker is the only one of over two hundred New Zealand beers to be rated a 10 in Keith Stewarts' 'The complete guide to New Zealand Beer'. Bloody hell!

For the non-beer drinkers there is a Mussel Sauvignon and a somewhat small but excellent selection of wines including a local Pinot and bubbly. There's even schnapps from East Takaka and a superb - and surprisingly moreish - apple cider.

The Mussel really goes off over New Year's. Golden Bay gets swamped with punters getting away from it all and the place just crams them in. It attracts some great gigs from the likes Cornerstone Roots, the Ukulele Orchestra, Trillian and Rhian Sheehan and not just over the holidays.

There's a great cross section of our fine country-folk here. Owners Jane and Andrew Dixon have been running the place for over fifteen years and are well known in the region. The staff are down-to-earth and friendly and they help create an atmosphere that is relaxed and comfortable. The locals are well treated; there are regular poetry and quiz nights; but there isn't a pool table, a telly or a pokie in sight - or a flush toilet! (The very clean composting toilet will provide relief to both you and Mother Nature!) Some may find the surroundings a bit rough-and-ready but after a few minutes you'll feel at home and you'll kick back, sup a few with mates and enjoy the trees and birds. Good on ya...

You really have to put the Mussel on the top of your list of must-dos if you ever find yourself in this incredible region of New Zealand.

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